Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer

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Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer Model 30Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer – The Mint Green Machine

The Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer is synonymous with vintage and antique milkshake makers from the early 1920’s through the 1960’s.  Even today Hamilton Beach is known for their milkshake makers, but the true age of malts and shakes were over 50 years ago.  Thanks to a resurgence of everything old, classic diners are bringing back the vintage and antique look that made them the hang out spots of young adults.

Recently Kathleen and I added the classic Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer to our collection.  I am not sure if it was a milkshake we had earlier that day and the fact that we had eaten in a diner or maybe it had something to do with us watching milkshakes being prepared in a Hamilton Beach sort of way.  What ever it was, by chance or fate, we happened upon a Hamilton Beach milkshake Mixer (Jadeite Green Model 30 Malt Drink Mixer).

Kathleen and I were a little out of our element with a Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer purchase.   We knew that vintage and antique milkshake mixers typically cost around $80-$150, so finding one under that price is usually a good deal.  As it turns out the price marked was $72, so we perked up a bit.  After inspecting the mixer and looking at the cord wear, everything seemed in really good order.  There was no rust or other markings that would indicate a lot of wear or misuse.

Rule #2734 – Always ask for a discount.  We did and found out the mixer was actually 30% off retail price.  Instead of the $72 price tag, we got it for much less.  Love that!  Actually as an antique picker, one of the main rules of picking is to never pay full price.  Negotiation can be quite fun.

Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer – Overview

We have seen vintage / antique Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixers in 4 different colors (mint green, white, silver and black).  The mint green ones are obviously the coolest looking ones of the bunch.  We haven’t seen any in red or blue and I am not sure any were made in that color.  I do know there are some competitors that had red colored ones.

The mixers approximate dimensions are:

  • Width: 6.5″
  • Depth: 7″
  • Height: 18″

The antique / vintage Hamilton Beach milkshake mixer models are made from castiron and have porcelain finish and a chrome plated motor.

To operate a Hamilton Beach milkshake mixer, you need to do 3 things.  The first of course is to plug in the unit.  Next flip the “on switch”.  The “on switch” on our unit is located at the back of the unit.  Lastly is to place a stainless steel milkshake cup into the cup guide, which activates the unit.  We had the antique store clerk pug it in to see how it ran and it spun perfectly.

Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer – Determining Age

Hamilton Beach Mixer Model 8When ever possible, we always try to find patent numbers.  These give you an excellent idea of how to determine the age of a product.  Sometimes, patent numbers don’t exist, so then your left to your own devices.  When searching around the internet my go to tools are Esty, Pinterest, Ebay and Google Images.  If an image exists, you will probably find something that looks like your antique pick.

The Hamilton Beach unit looked older than many of the models I had seen before and I couldn’t wait to get home to see what the age was.  I figured it was probably 50’s or 60’s.  Upon inspecting the milkshake mixer, I found that there were a few patents submitted by T. B. Myers (225436) & A. W. Seyfried (2270480) that were dated 1941 and 1942.  Based on these, I put the Hamilton Beach milkshake mixer age somewhere from 1942 – 1950.  I haven’t found exactly when the model 30’s were produced, but I assume it was around that time frame.  This of course isn’t an exact science, since I don’t have all the facts.

I have seen several models of the Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer.  The lower the model number the earlier the mixer was made. Model 8 and 10s for example were probably made in the 1920’s, Model 25s were made in the 1930’s, Model 30’s were made after 1940.  The cords and pugs are another give away.  Early plugs are normally round and wide and the cords made out of cloth.

The milkshake machines prior to 1940 had fixed agitators with non moving parts.  The agitator is the fixed circular disc at the end of the mixer shaft.  The first mixers only had one.  As time went on a 2nd one was added further up the shaft from the first.

If you can find a model 25 or prior for under $100 it is a fantastic deal, since these are quite old.  Just make sure the mixer actually runs prior to purchase.

Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer – History

The Hamilton Beach Manufacturing Company was Founded in April 1910 by inventor Frederick J. Osius.  The company’s name is derived from Louis Hamilton and Chester Beach who were hired on by Frederick.  The first drink mixer produced by Hamilton Beach was called the Cyclone and was introduced in 1911.

Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer – Competitors

The Gilchrist Company produced a really nice milkshake malt mixer from 1902 to 1926 under the supervision of Raymond B. Gilchrist. Several patents pertaining to mixers were applied for in 1922 and were approved a year later.   These were pretty advanced when they came out. The mixers were white porcelain clad with a metal base and a chromed motor casing. I think these might have been originally equipped with glassware instead of stainless steel cups. In March 1925 a lawsuit ensued between Gilchrist and Hamilton Beach.  Hamilton Beach appears to have won the lawsuit and I guess the rest is history.  Gilchrist’s company ceased in 1926.  One important note was Gilchrist created some really fabulous ice cream scoopers.

Horlicks Malted MilkHorlick (William Horlick Jr – Horlick’s Malted Milk Company) Dumore produced a milkshake mixer.  The mixer consisted of 3 parts.  The cup, the motor with a single agitator and a housing stand.  The motor was made by the Wisconsin Electric Company.  William Horlick from Racine Wisconsin was most famous for inventing the U.S. Patents 278967 (Jun 5, 1883) & 627119 (Jun 20, 1899) – for Malted Milk.  I found a site that has a lot of information on Horlick History.

In the 50’s another company by the name of Premier Industries Corporation produced the Champion Mixer.  I have seen a few of these, but I don’t know much about them.

Hamilton Beach Mixer Model 1

To find out more about the Hamilton Beach Milkshake Mixer visit their website.

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25 Comments

  1. Hi, I have the Jade green Hamilton beach #30 mixer. It works great and is in excellent condition. These machines need to be oiled. Can you tell me please where to put the oil and what type of oil to use. I would be so grateful for this information. Thank you. Please e-mail me at treenoleen@aol.com Thank you Antique Outings

    • Hi Kathie,

      I haven’t yet had to oil mine, so I am not quite sure. The local hardware store should carry lubricating oils. I will have to check mine out and see what I can find.

      • I just happened to see my name pop up on a search and decided to check you out. I really enjoyed looking at your website.
        I have a lot of information about malt mixer maintenance, as well as lots of hard to find parts.
        Check out the maltmixerman.com website to see the “how-to” section on maintenance and repair. It should answer your question and the ones you receive about lubricating the bearings.
        I’m also on facebook as Malt Mixer Man, which shows a lot of different models.
        If I can ever be of any help, email me. Advice is free.
        Our goal is to keep these classic old machines out of the land fills.

  2. Hi Tom, thanks for your answer. I know they have to be oiled because the bearings are not incased like the modern machines of today. To make you laugh I called Hamilton Beach, I asked if anyone could help me and they told me that no ne who works there is old enough to know how to answer me. If you find anything please let me know. Thanks.

  3. There are oil holes on the very top of the motor and the bottom of the motor where the spindle emerges. Use light duty sewing machine oil and inject it directly into the holes. The word oil should be printed next to them. Good luck.

  4. Jon Savoia on

    The small toggle switch located in the back of the head is not the on switch. This is a switch that determines whether the mixer is running in low or high speed. Most of them were 2 speed mixers/in other words the toggle switch only determines whether the mixer is running in high or low speed. The actual on switch is hidden from view somewhat. It is located underneath the chrome piece that you place the cup under at the top and then the cup rests and it held in position by the lower chrome piece that is located on the front side behind the mixing spindle. The machine of course has to be plugged in, the rest of the on switch apparatus is inside the base. I have had many of these apart and have rebuilt several also. They are especially nice when you have all the chrome pieces re-chromed at a chrome shop, of course this is expensive but you have a beautiful mixer for use and display when done. Of course if you go this far, new brushes if needed and check the bearings and repack if needed also. It takes special tools to get one of these apart. Of course it can be fun reconditioning these but it is time consuming. Don’t let any of the eBay sellers tell you that you can clean up the scratches and chrome pitting in the top or lower half of the heads. It can’t be done. The highly sought after original Hamilton Beach Cups can have some scratches removed and the cup polished to look fantastic but again this entails lots of time spent at a buffer with certain compounds and this is tedious work to say the least. Doing the inside of the cup can be dangerous without knowing what you are doing and is nearly impossible without the right buffing equipment. Hope this helps, I don’t want to go much farther and give away all the secrets to a complete restoration of the mixers.

    • Hi, Jon,

      I have a model 50 that came from my grandparents soda fountain when they closed in the 1960s. I used it for a while but then it began giving an electrical shock when touched so haven’t used for years. Recently tried to get it fixed but nobody seems able. Can you suggest somebody who does this? I don’t need it restored to new appearance, it’s in pretty good cosmetic shape, just want to be able to use it and then pass it down. Thanks.

  5. stephanie cook on

    I need to replace the butterfly agitator at the end of one mixer. How do I do this. Can I use a newer part or do I need to find a vintage one?

  6. Hi, I have a Hamilton Beach No. 18 Malt Mixer. I need to replace the cord. Can anyone instruct me on how to do this? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

  7. Great site. I have a model 8 and need to replace the cord. Can I do it myself or should I take it in? Is it very hard to do? Thanks

    • Hey Michael,

      Thanks.

      Unless your good with electrical stuff, I would probably try to find someone in your area that can replace stuff like that. You might try some of your local antique stores and maybe a hardware store. They might be able to point you in the right direction.

  8. Just some info for those that are looking for how old a unit is. Mine is a model 17 with a patent date of 4-17-23.

  9. Thanks everyone for all the information, just purchased a model #18 HB mixer and looking for all the help I can get. Cheers to all … !

    Danny

  10. Phyllis Russell on

    Just bought a malt mixer today at an antique show. The man who sells them refurbishes them, as needed. He knows these machines, so if you have need of repair, call him. Malt Mixer Man is his Facebook page, or email him at: maltmixerman@hotmail.com

  11. larry wapnick on

    I have just done a complete wiring amd cleaning to a Hamilton Beach Arnold #17 Malted Machine with patent dates 1923, 1927. This will probably answer most of the questions for hands on, do it yourselfers. I do caution that you are at your own risk and that this is how I resolved doing the job. Remove the holding screws at the back of the unit to remove the entire mixer and motor assembly from the chrome support bracket at the top of the green enamel stand. Make sure that you first remove the switch plate assembly by turning the pivot screw at the top COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Remove the middle set screw from the back to separate the chrome top from the green base( this might not be easy as I had to carefully pry one from the other as they were both very tight. A good idea is to soak both in wd-40 and then gently pry, careful not to chip the enamel. When the chrome top starts to move away, depress the black switch post so that it clears the enamel stand, it depresses in. Now the entire assembly can be removed exposing all of the wiring, and contacts. Dissasemble the switch mechanism being careful not to break the last plate which is the insulator made of a bakelite material. I replaced all of the wires with new ones and careful used an ohm meter to make sure the with worked and was insulated from the assembly! I installed a new grounded 3 prong power cord, using a modern plastic cord holder and utilizing the 2nd screw as a ground to the chassis and anchor point to the frame. The first screw holds the spring bar that pushes out the switch and is secured by one separate screw. The second screw holds the bracket that keeps the upper wires from fowling the switch and also is an anchor for the ground as well as the anchor for the power cord. The next step is to overhaul the motor. Remove the brushes, carefully. They are spring loaded and it is easy to lose the caps that secure them. Here is the secret…. The round cap at the top of the motor is a blind cap! Take a rubber pipe gripper (1 inch) and place it snugly around the car. Turn with pressure and it will come off exposing a brass plate with spanner holes in it. Turn this counter clockwise and it will screw off, be careful as it is under pressure with a spring that it compresses against the top bearing and the motor shaft. Release the two outside bottom screws that hold the to halves of the motor casing and they should separate exposing the motor and the top motor shaft and commutator. The bottom part I did not separate from the case as this requires a press to separate the lower motor shaft and spindle. I took off the windings, switch and cleaned up 90 years of grime and crud, it is a dirty job but worthwhile. Be careful with the windings and bearings, make notes or tale pictures of their locations. Handle the wires with care and test the windings for continuity and shorts, I cleaned the upper bearing and was able to lubricate the lower parts. Always check for shorting wires against the motor housing and switch assembly. My machine is now working as it did 90 years ago, it is grounded and safe. Good luck, read the instructions over and over until you understand how and why everything works and how it comes apart! Work carefully and slowly, this could be a great project or a nightmare! You are at your own risk!!! Best of luck, it is a great machine. Larry

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